Let's embark on our journey and continue to the parish of Estrela, which is next to the Santos neighborhood. Here we have two options: either we follow one of the best-known streets in Lisbon – 24 de Julho – which runs along the river, or we go up towards a church that is worth visiting. I choose to go up, especially because there are no shops on 24 de Julho and it is a busy street full of cars. The idea is to go up through Lapa, which is a chic neighborhood in Lisbon, not only because of its incredible views of the river, but also because of the houses. From the outside it looks like everything is the same, but I assure you that inside there are incredible apartments. This is also where the Lapa Palace Hotel, a stunning hotel that completely breaks away from mass tourism standards (even five-star hotels). Exclusivity and high standards are the norm. But if you are like me and are not dazzled by these hotel eccentricities, I suggest you discover the National Museum of Ancient Art. Inside there is an incredible collection of paintings, illuminated manuscripts, sculptures, goldsmithing and ceramics that you shouldn't miss. There is a beautiful viewpoint attached to the museum, but inside the museum itself there is also a pleasant café where you can recharge your batteries and you can enter for free.
The Basilica
You've probably heard a lot about tram 28 in the tourist guides. There are lots of trams in Lisbon, but this route is the best known because it leaves from Graça, goes down through Alfama towards Baixa, passes through Santos until it reaches Estrela. If you want to take a look at the buildings in Lapa, then go up from the Museum of Ancient Art, but be careful because it's uphill! A lot. Otherwise, go back to Santos, near the French embassy and catch the 28 from there. There should be fewer tourists on this stretch, because this line is really worth taking, but it's terribly crowded. But I'll tell you a secret about how to do it. Once you're up there, take a walk around the Jardim da Estrela, which is beautiful, sit down for a while to enjoy the nature and then go to the Basílica da Estrela.
There are many churches in Lisbon and this is another one. It is beautiful, I don't deny it, but for me I think I prefer the Jeronimos or the rawness and simplicity of Lisbon Cathedral. This is where you should catch the 28 back to the city centre because there is still a chance to sit down. In the summer it can be a long journey and the heat can become your worst enemy, so it is best to get a seat. And then get off at the end because then you will experience the whole adventure of the 28 in one go.
The Bridge and the Alcântara area
Let's then go down from Estrela to Alcântara. This is a more residential area but at the same time busy. There is the Museum of the Orient and the Alcantara Docks which nowadays has more expensive restaurants. But it is worth the walk there. On the other side of the July 24th, almost under the bridge there is the LX Factory – a kind of more zone trendy with bars, restaurants and shops cool. Get lost there. The building is kind of ugly from the outside, but it might be interesting to spend some time there to see the dynamics of the space. But what you will immediately see is the grandeur of the bridge – the 25th of April Bridge. This bridge is one of the symbols of Lisbon and is grand. In the parish of Alcântara, these are the two highlights that I would like to highlight.
Go up to the Ajuda Palace
Let's move on now and go up to Ajuda. This parish does not touch the river and is more residential. The part that is closer to Restelo is very interesting with low houses and buildings and is a quiet area. I like this area and it is not often talked about because it has no monuments or notable shops and as it is quite steep it is also more difficult to access. But it is cheaper than Belém or Alcântara and has some local accommodation options. There is something here that you should visit – the Ajuda National Palace. The easiest way to get there is via Calçada da Ajuda (there are buses from Belém). It is a bit far, but the route is less winding than between Santos and Estrela. This palace was the official residence of the Portuguese royal family from the reign of Dom Luís I until the end of the Monarchy and is a place where you can relive the time of kings and queens. It is definitely worth a visit and if you prefer to escape the hustle and bustle of Belém then you have found a place to spend a couple of hours in peace.
And so we came from Santos to Ajuda and we are now at the gates of Belém – one of the most well-known parishes among tourists and one of the busiest. Find out what I think of this area in the next article and find out what I really think of the famous pastéis de Belém, where you can find the famous pastry shop known all over the world.