Getting to know Portugal: the Algarve

The Algarve is another Portugal within the country. A region of sunshine and mild temperatures that allows itself to be carried away by the southern seas. This will immediately be the main reason why the Algarve has been chosen by many as one of the best destinations for holidays, especially by those who live in northern Europe.

Odeceixe Beach

In the summer it is full of people, but there is much more, with circuits outside the most popular areas that are mainly between Faro and Lagos, where it is possible to discover small villages further from the coast, beaches that are less crowded with people and other curiosities in this region of Portugal.

Three Castles Beach

The Algarve is synonymous with beaches, hotels and resorts, luxury and villas exclusive areas that are hidden in the vegetation and often go unnoticed by passersby. But the truth is that the Algarve also means a stretch of green and fertile land that boasts large orange plantations and huge fields of fig and almond trees. Gastronomy plays an interesting role with some typically Algarve dishes (not to mention the tasty fish you don't eat there) and sweets also win points with so many delicious options. In terms of craftsmanship, we have a lot of choice and its architecture is also well known due to the Arabic features that still persist there. In fact, the name Algarve comes from the Arabic expression al-gharb which means 'the west', thus designating the westernmost tip of the Muslim empire.

Arade River in Portimão

This is an area rich in tradition and landscapes. Between Aljezur on the West coast, on the Costa Vicentina, to the border city of Vila Real de Santo António, to the East and very close to Spain, we have a diverse and huge area to discover. Whether you like more excitement, activities at sea or fun on land, if you prefer the farniente from the pool or perhaps the calm of walks through the Algarve mountains, there is a whole world to discover.

The climate and terrain

The Algarve is divided into 16 municipalities that run from the west coast to the Guadiana River, in the east. It is surrounded by mountains almost along its entire length, to the north, and has a privileged geographical position. As it is further south, it has a milder climate with Mediterranean characteristics, with more than 3000 hours of sunshine per year and lower rainfall than in the rest of the territory.

Map of the Algarve, source: Turismo de Portugal

There are three distinct areas: the coastal area, which is where all those postcard beaches that we know are found and where the hotels are located, resorts and golf courses; then we have another area called Barrocal or Beira-Serra which is a strip that is still relatively close to the sea, less residential and more agricultural in which the famous Algarve orange, figs, arbutus and honey stand out; finally we have the third area which is the mountains and which occupies half of the Algarve territory and is actually made up of three mountains: Espinhaço de Cão, Monchique and Caldeirão. In fact, it is these mountains that, in conjunction with the geographical situation further south, create a kind of barrier and create a more temperate climate. Faro, although it is closer to Morocco and Africa, is often not the hottest city. Beja and Évora win in high temperatures and even Lisbon is many times hotter. What happens is that Faro and all other coastal cities have milder temperatures where the difference between minimum and maximum temperatures is smaller. I wouldn't say this is a proven fact, but just my observation and experience of the Algarve. Of course, warm air currents coming from Africa are a determining factor.

A little of history

The Algarve has a long history that we can still identify today in its architecture, lacy chimneys, white houses and typical tiles. It is also possible to see the marks that different peoples and cultures left in this area of the country, from Neolithic remains to the five centuries of Arab rule that had a great influence on the history of this region.

Detail of Algarve architecture, photo: ETA

Between 711 and 1249, the region was dominated by the Arabs and it was from this date on that the Portuguese kings began to call themselves “kings of Portugal and the Algarves”. After annexing this region to the rest of the territory, now at the beginning of the 15th century, the Algarve played an important role because it was precisely in Sagres that Infante D. Henrique set up a navigation school and the era of Discoveries began there. In 1755, a major earthquake (which, in fact, greatly affected Lisbon) had its epicenter south of Lagos, which caused enormous damage to the buildings of the time, which is why there are few buildings prior to that date.

From the 60s onwards, a new era began in the Algarve with the opening of Faro airport. Tourists from all over Europe began to arrive in the 'forgotten paradise', boosting many hotel complexes and, consequently, the importance of tourism in the Algarve economy.

According to the latest report published by Portugal Tourism April last year, the Algarve registered more than four million guests in 2017, representing around 20% of all demand in Portugal, with nationals increasing by 3.3% in 2017. The top five tourist sending markets were United Kingdom, Germany, Netherlands, Ireland and France. The growth of Faro airport, although lower than that of the rest of the country, was still the same in 2017, at 14.6%. In the latest report from Turismo de Portugal that reflects the accumulated result for the month of November, a month considered weak by the hotel industry, for the entire national territory, the list of foreign guests is headed by the United Kingdom, Germany, Spain, France, Holland, Brazil , USA, Ireland, Italy and Poland.

Total overnight stays in millions in Portugal, source: Turismo de Portugal

Despite these numbers of tourists visiting Portugal, and the Algarve in particular, there are still many small towns, especially on the Costa Vicentina and inland, that insist on staying away from the tourist flows and the somewhat hectic life on the coast. There you can enjoy the tranquility of the landscapes that are so conducive to good walks. It is this lesser-known Algarve, but also the most popular and eclectic, that I will talk about in the next articles “Getting to know the Algarve”.

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