Faro is the capital of the Algarve and the largest city in this region, but don't be like most tourists who arrive at the airport and then rush to get to the airport. resort or a neighboring city. Faro has a lot to explore and deserves a day to see it all at your leisure.
The city itself does not have a beach because along its entire seafront there is the nature reserve that we mentioned in the previous article – the Ria Formosa Park. There is that feeling of being close to the sea, and yet so far away at the same time. Getting to any of the beaches on the islands in this area is complicated and only possible by boat, but if you can, you will be dazzled by Barreta Island, Culatra Island, further east by Fuzeta Island or the slightly more accessible Tavira Island. Admiring the sunset on any of these is an unmissable spectacle and well worth all the effort to get there.
We return to Faro, a city that has little to do with a seaside resort, but which has a rich heritage in its historic centre (which is easily accessible on foot) and where the Cathedral of Faro is located. In fact, this centre is a reflection of the passage of the Romans, who established an administrative and port centre here called Ossonoba, then the Visigoths who built the cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria and later the Arabs who promoted it to a higher status. In 1249, D. Afonso III conquered the city from the Moors and fortified it. In the following centuries, Faro became a prosperous city due to its geographical position, its port and the exploitation of the salt and agricultural produce trade. In 1499, King D. Manuel gave it even more prominence by implementing a profound urban change and equipping it with a hospital, a Church of the Holy Spirit and a customs house. In 1540 it was elevated to the status of city and in 1577 it became the seat of the bishopric of the Algarve. However, the sacking and burning in 1596 by English troops commanded by the Earl of Essex destroyed the city, damaging the walls and churches. After its reconstruction, Faro rose again and began a period of expansion, but soon after the earthquakes of 1722 and, in particular, that of 1755 destroyed a large part of the fortified city. The most beautiful and important buildings in the city date mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries, that is, after the two earthquakes.
The Town Arch and the Cathedral
Right in the center and facing the Faro marina, we find the entrance to the historic area called Town Arch. This neoclassical arch built in the 19th century connects us to the oldest part of the city and through it we can access the walled part of the city. A little further on we enter the Cathedral Square, a huge square full of orange trees, and where you can find the Episcopal Palace, O Seminary of Saint Joseph of Faro, the City Council and the Faro Cathedral.
The Cathedral, originally built in the Gothic style, is the focal point of the square and was almost completely destroyed in the English attack of 1596 and then again in the earthquake of 1755. It is a church with three naves, separated by Doric columns and round arches, with a chancel and seven chapels built in different periods. The highlights of the building are the beautiful 17th century tile panels and the Baroque organ, decorated with Chinese motifs. The only Gothic vestige that has survived is the bell tower, but due to the successive “attacks” the church has faced, there is a mixture of architectural styles, but it remains beautiful and well worth a visit.
There are many churches you can visit in Faro, but the Carmo Church, built between 1713 and 1719, stands out for its several chapels covered in gilded woodwork from the Baroque period, and in particular its main chapel. It is in this church, in fact, that the first manifestations of the Rococo period appear in the Algarve. In contrast to this splendor, Chapel of Bones, from 1816, has skulls and large bones on its walls taken from the friars' cemetery.
Olhao
Less than 10km from the capital we arrive at Olhão, an essentially residential city and one of the largest fishing ports in the Algarve, being an important centre for the production of sardines and canned tuna. In the centre, the terraces of the houses and cubic chimneys that evoke the Arab influence stand out. The main church is that of Our Lady of the Rosary, in Praça da Restauração, built between 1691 and 1698. Behind the church is the outer chapel of Our Lady of the Afflicted. Not far from here, stop by Olhao Market, two brick buildings on the riverside, where you can find many cafés and stalls. It is located on Avenida 5 de Outubro, a long street next to the estuary and ideal for strolling and cycling. The problem with Olhão is the same as with Faro: close to the sea, but not on the sea. The islands of Culatra and Armona offer stunning landscapes and miles of almost deserted beaches, although you have to take a boat to get there.
Tavira
Twenty or so kilometres from here, and after passing through small villages, we arrive at Tavira, a very interesting city due to the beauty of its historic centre. Everything revolves around the River Gilão, the Roman bridge and its 21 churches. Tavira is currently a city that lives off fishing and tourism and has undergone alternating growth and decline over the centuries. Under the Moors it was an important port, but after the 16th century it began to prosper less, a situation aggravated by the severe plague in 1645 and the silting of the port. But today it has excellent reasons to visit, with a lively centre, many cafés and terraces and beautiful monuments such as the Arab castle at the top of the hill, the clock tower of the Church of Saint Mary of the Castle, the Church of Mercy and the Convent of Our Lady of Grace, currently a luxurious guesthouse. The islands of Tavira and Cabanas are accessible by boat and offer uncrowded beaches with golden sand.
From Tavira to the Guadiana River
In this last section, I would like to highlight the small village of Cacela Velha, a town located on a hill with fabulous views over the sea. Access is via a country road and its white houses surrounding the church and peaceful atmosphere are definitely worth a visit. In the distance we can see the beach and the small boats that dot the landscape create a bucolic scene worthy of a photo.
It is from Cacela Velha that the open sea returns and the towns gain direct access to the beach. First Manta Rota, then Altura and finally Monte Gordo. However, these three towns do not gain the prominence of other places in the Barlavento, neither for their buildings, nor for their hotels, nor for their nightlife. Even so, Avenida Infante D. Henrique, in Monte Gordo, offers more life with its restaurants and the casino located here.
If you like warmer sea water, then this part of the Algarve, which is closer to the border with Spain and therefore the Mediterranean Sea, is ideal for you. It may only be a couple of degrees warmer, but it makes all the difference compared to the Atlantic coast to the west.
Finally, we arrive at Vila Real de Santo António, built according to a project by the Marquis of Pombal in 1774. It almost resembles downtown Lisbon, with symmetrical streets that look like a grid. Today, it is an important fishing port in the Algarve and welcomes many Spanish tourists due to its proximity to the neighboring country, which is connected by a bridge that connects the two countries a little further north of the center. This city was built on the banks of the Guadiana River and has the National Dunes Forest ahead, but even so the Santo Antonio Beach or Monte Gordo are very close.