Getting to know the Algarve: the Barlavento

The western part of the Algarve is called barlavento, or windward Algarve, and is located in the strip between Vila do Bispo and Albufeira. This nautical term refers to the part of the vessel that faces the side from which the wind blows and it happens that it is precisely from the west that the prevailing winds in the Algarve blow, which is why this designation began to be used. The western Algarve also corresponds to the better-known Algarve, where the cities with the most cafes, bars and restaurants are located, where the majority of hotels, golf courses and resorts and, in general, it is the busiest area in the south of the country. That's why we're going to divide the windward side into two articles and we're going to start now with the part that goes from Sagres to Portimão. Let's leave out the Costa Vicentina that we already talked about here and the mountain part because we are going to dedicate a complete article to it.

The Western Algarve

We left Sagres on the N268 towards Vila do Bispo because we want to take the N125, the road that runs along the entire Algarve coast and which stretches from this city to Vila Real de Santo António. This road, although it runs along the entire Algarve along the coast, is not a coastal road, that is, it never meets the sea despite being parallel to it. In practice, this means that in most cities or beaches we have to leave the N125, go there and to exit, return to the same road 125.

In the Sagres area there are few cities because we are in a natural reserve area, but the coast here is also quite steep, just bordering the occasional beach, small and difficult to access. After Praia do Martinhal, still in Sagres, only one or two beaches appear – Barranco, Ingrina, Zavial, Furnas and Figueira. All small beaches. It is only further ahead, when the EN125 approaches the sea again, that we find Praia da Salema, a little larger and with a village with the same name. After that comes Praia do Burgau and the first one with a significant and larger hotel complex is Praia da Luz. The latter is a very beautiful beach that is worth visiting.

Ponta da Piedade and Lagos

Before arriving in Lagos we have to make a small detour because it is imperative to go to Ponta da Piedade. In this area there are many more beaches, but they continue to intertwine along a very jagged coastline full of rocks that are known worldwide. On this small cape we find the Ponta da Piedade Lighthouse, but it is above all the view from here that arouses the interest of hundreds of people every day. The rock formations are worth lots of photos and the view we have over the entire bay of Lagos almost to Portimão is well worth the visit.

View of Lagos from Ponta da Piedade

There are quite a few steps to get to the water and on hot days it can be a bit tiring, but I don't think you will regret it. Down there there are several boats where you can take boat trips in the area and better appreciate all the rock cavities and natural beauty of the region.

Point of Pity
Boats at Ponta da Piedade

We are practically on the doorstep of Lagos, a paradise for tourists, especially English ones, who chose this area because it has some of the most beautiful beaches in the Algarve, but also because Lagos is the first city coming from the west where there is actually more life. In the strip next to Ribeira de Bensafrim, which corresponds to the oldest area of the city, there are lots of restaurants, bars and nightlife to explore. In addition to this hustle and bustle, Lagos is a peaceful city, close to one of the best-known beaches in the region – Meia Praia, which is 4km long – but the city has few monuments due to the 1755 earthquake that devastated the region. I highlight the area where Porta de São Gonçalo is located and what little remains of the castle. But it's nice to get lost in Praça de Gil Eanes and stroll around here. After the visit, we will now leave Lagos and continue on the 125 towards Portimão. But once again the road leaves the coast and goes to land. Meia Praia is in this area, but between it and the coastal part there is a railway line, meaning that this beach still retains a somewhat wild appearance because its access is not the easiest despite being in a flatter area. and no rocks. The wind can blow strong here and although beautiful, this beach can be a bit deserted on windy days.

The Ribeira de Odiáxere that flows into the sea in this area forms the Ria de Alvor, an area of sandy land where the water circulates and flows until it reaches the Atlantic. The fishing village of Alvor, which was an Arab settlement and where the Divino Salvador church stands out, is very popular during the summer. On one side the Odiáxere River forms a kind of natural marina with colorful boats and on the other we have a huge beach that extends to Praia dos 3 Irmãos.

Boats at dusk in Alvor

We now continue on the M531 road because we want to enter Portimão through the most well-known and touristy area. Before that, we also have Praia do Vau and Praia dos 3 Castelos in an area where the coast is once again rocky and jagged, giving a glimpse of the well-known landscapes of one of the best-known beaches in Portugal – Praia da Rocha.

Portimão

This city is one of the largest in the Algarve and is practically two cities in one, that is, the area closest to the sea has many tall buildings and corresponds to the most touristy area where most of the restaurants, hotels and shops are located; the other, where the oldest center is located, is parallel to the Arade River and is a more traditional area, although also with plenty of shops and restaurants.

3 Castles Beach

Praia da Rocha is magnificent, imposing for its size and very beautiful. It is the main beach in Portimão and extends from Praia dos 3 Castelos to the Arade River, which originates in Serra do Caldeirão and has its mouth here in Portimão. The beach has a walkway along its length with bars and restaurants and at its end appears the marina, an area with more restaurants and plenty of space to enjoy the view of the river, which I highly recommend.

Rocha Beach, Portimão

But it is on Avenida Tomás Cabreira, which runs parallel to the beach, that you will find more shops and people strolling. The other part of Portimão, which is about 80% from the city, is much more residential. However, between the marina (a second one on the river) and the Ponte Velha (perfectly passable) there is a good area for walking and cycling. It's worth it because the view of the river is beautiful and there are many cafes where you can sit for a while and recharge your batteries.

Portimão is a city with a larger structure, with a large shopping center and a lot of commerce. It was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, but if you want to know more about the Roman and Islamic presence as well as all the maritime activity in the area you can visit the Portimão Museum which is housed in an old canning factory, and is therefore also a museum dedicated to the history of fishing and canning. It is close to the marina, on Rua D. Carlos I.

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