In the previous article I spoke about that area of Lisbon that extends from Expo to the center. It's a track that has become a little forgotten over time, although recently Marvila has caught his breath a little. But it is in the parishes of Santa Maria Maior and Misericórdia that everything changes: more people, more commerce and more monuments. This is also where all tourists who come to Lisbon usually start their visit.
Talking about what can be seen and done here in a single text is not possible. There is a lot, although it is all very concentrated, especially in Santa Maria Maior – Alfama, the Lisbon Cathedral, the Castle, then we have the entire Baixa Pombalina, the Santa Justa Elevator, Chiado, Praça do Comércio, but you can do almost everything on foot. It's a bustling area full of reasons to visit, but in my opinion it's about discovering it little by little, forgetting that there are maps and telephones and doing it like the old days before technology: our head turns to GPS and we walk and seeing. As there are many alleys, if you get lost, then use technology to help you find your way back to the city.
Lisbon – trend destination
Nothing here has changed radically. The monuments have always existed there, the squares are the same, the alleys remain narrow and many stores are old. Of course there are now more hotels, cafes and trendy places to sit and have a coffee or a beer. Lisbon has always been visited for its architectural heritage and old neighborhoods shrouded in mystery and tradition. We use an expression and say that they are traditional neighborhoods. Being traditional is just that, a kind of ancient with tradition and something distinctly parochial. But nowadays there is more than just the monuments, because Lisbon has managed to reinvent itself as a fashion destination on a European (or even global) level. And this is precisely what is felt in the air and which is somewhat difficult to explain: it has become a trend destination. Lisbon has bars, restaurants and monuments that contribute to this. But other European cities also have all of this (and more!). Lisbon has incredible views from its hills and the light here is unique in the world, a light that floods the city helped by the reflection of the Tagus River and animated by the bright colors of the houses. But that's not enough. There are incredible places everywhere, there are beautiful monuments in so many cities around the world. What possibly makes all the difference is this mix of “castitiousness” – that real and genuine trait – with naturalness and relaxation. I always remember a friend of mine saying that when he lands in another European city where he still lives, he barely gets off the plane and the stress starts. There are cities like this, a bit aggressive, where it seems like money dictates everything, where you have to run everywhere. The feeling I have is that the Universe is more in our favor here. And it is in this spirit cool that bars, restaurants, fashion stores, decoration stores and art galleries, rooftops and accommodation trendy they give a different face to the old Baixa. They all stand out for their more avant-garde appearance in the middle of old Lisbon.
Next step: Mercy
Let's proceed. Misericórdia is the new parish that resulted from the union of four other small parishes, but where a lot of people live, being less commercial than Baixa. It starts more or less in Cais do Sodré and goes to Príncipe Real, and then from Santos to close to Estrela. It's not that big, but it takes in Bairro Alto, the trendy Mercado da Ribeira and Miradouro de Santa Catarina which has a fabulous view that I highly recommend. But be prepared that the terrain here is not flat. It's only flat between Cais do Sodré and Santos, the rest is to be done, with shoes that don't hurt your feet. The Bairro Alto area is a mecca for going out at night, where bars and restaurants coexist side by side. In summer, especially, everyone is out and about and I think this is a bohemian neighborhood that you should visit if you want to have a drink and have a little fun. This area is quite interesting and prepares us for the next parishes in the next article next week: Estrela, Alcântara and Ajuda.
I hope you got an idea of the spirit that lives in these areas of Lisbon and in the next article I continue, still next to the Tagus River, on our journey through the neighborhoods of Lisbon. It's already a different area from the historic center, but there are some places that deserve to be highlighted.