We continued with our unconventional itinerary of Lisbon and I chose to start with the first two neighborhoods that border the airport: Olivais and Parque das Nações. The latter is more talked about because it has many attractions for visitors, since Olivais I'm almost certain doesn't even appear in tourist guides.
The airport is in the city, unlike many other European capitals where the airport is well outside the center, ours is relatively close, in the northern part of Lisbon. On one side we have Lumiar, which we have also heard little about because it is a dormitory and peripheral neighborhood, and to the south we have Olivais and, closer to the river, Parque das Nações. At the moment, both parishes are served by the Lisbon metro. Os Olivais is a residential neighborhood and although it has some good parts, it is cheaper than Expo (Parque das Nações is also known as this). Berlin Avenue divides Olivais Sul from Olivais Norte, there is a mall which was revitalized recently and many medium-sized buildings that already show the signs of time. If we continue towards the river we will end up in a much more popular and well-known parish: Parque das Nações (also known simply as Expo).
This part of the city was completely industrial and somewhat abandoned before the construction took place there. Universal Exhibition 1998 with the theme “The Oceans: a heritage for the future”. This is where we are going to focus more, although this area has a lot of things to do and see, so in this article I'm just going to talk about some general aspects that I find interesting and that you shouldn't miss when you come. to Lisbon.
Let's start with a generic view of this area. North of Expo there is a neighborhood called Moscavide which is a bit like Olivais but with smaller buildings. It has a lot of commerce and good transport, with metro and buses (trams). Parque das Nações itself is “trapped” between a train line – the Linha do Norte – and the river. In the middle is where all the things to see are and on the sides is the residential area. Before, this part was a refinery and had many abandoned warehouses so all the construction here is new. They are medium-sized buildings, interspersed with a few lower housing units and are most of the time expensive. The price per square meter here is one of the highest in Lisbon. The river, the Vasco da Gama shopping mall, the fact that it is a flat area with new construction made prices soar. I recognize the value of this residential area, but in my opinion I find it a little impersonal. It doesn't have that neighborhood flavor like in other parts of Lisbon.
We therefore have two residential areas at Expo and in the middle we have the best-known part, which is the one that appears in all tourist guides and is the one that is talked about most. In the heart of the Expo we have Gare do Oriente designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, which was completed in 1998 to serve the Expo.
It's a bit of a controversial season because some people love it and some people hate it, but I think it's beautiful, especially at night when it's lit up. Right in front of this station (train and metro) we have two huge residential towers that are part of a complex where one of Lisbon's famous shopping malls is located. It's not my favorite, but it's big and beautiful with three floors and all the shops and more you could need. It is always very busy and has two entrances, one that leads to the station and the other that faces the river. It is in the area close to the river that you can walk or cycle and it is also here that some things worth noting are concentrated: the oceanarium and the Lisbon casino. The oceanarium is worth a complete article in itself, but now I want to tell you that it is fantastic and really deserves a detailed and lengthy visit.
The Casino is modern and a space that, in addition to the usual games, has shows (some are free) throughout the year and a restaurant. It's also worth a visit even if you don't like games as it has a very beautiful and different central bar. The Expo area is “sprinkled” with restaurants and as it has many hotels and offices there are always a lot of people walking around. There is also the Altice Arena, which is a gigantic performance hall (music concerts in particular) and the FIL – Feira Internacional de Lisboa – where international competitions are held. Less relevant for tourists, of course, but I'm mentioning it because it's built in this central part. Between one end of the park and the other there is a cable car that gives us a very interesting view of everything. The walk is short, but it's worth it because the view is beautiful.
It's worth visiting?
So in a short answer, yes it is, but if what you are looking for is a more traditional and old Lisbon then you will feel disappointed here. This area is like another Lisbon within the capital, more modern and airy, but for me I think it's interesting to spend an afternoon and have dinner there, for example. When it's sunny it's good to take a walk along the river and at night the view of the Vasco da Gama Bridge, the reflection of the river which is very wide in that stretch, the restaurants, the shopping mall, the casino and, above all, the Oceanarium make it worth the trip. visit. There is a metro line to the center and buses to Baixa de Lisboa, which is the oldest and most central part so it is quite accessible. As for staying, I think I prefer other different areas. I don't think it's absolutely essential to stay in the center of everything, but what I'm looking for is something more traditional and this area isn't like that. But this is certainly an area chosen by Lisbon residents and tourists to stroll and relax.
In the next article I will continue this “journey” and we will go from Expo to Santa Apolónia Station, a route entirely along the river between the parishes of Marvila, Beato, Penha de França and São Vicente.